Carnival

Today is Carnival (Latin: carne vale or “farewell meat”). It is a Roman Catholic tradition, marking the beginning of Lent (Cuaresma), that has developed its own character in various parts of the world. In most places, from what I have heard, big processions fill the streets; the people dressed in skimpy or over-the-top outfits, often with folklore masks. Wikipedia says that the loud music and often risque outfits that typify carnival represent the “last hurrah” before the 40 days of Lent, during which all bodily pleasures are to be abandoned. Here in San Lucas Toliman it may not be all bodily pleasures that are left behind but Luquenos do hold to the tradition of not eating meat and avoid having celebrations, including weddings (in fact, I was told that Lent was the reason Gela had to get married so quickly - 5 weeks after getting engaged - because otherwise she’d have to wait until after Lent).

For the last several days, the kids have been emptying the eggs from their shells (preserving the shell as much as possible), painting them in bright colors and filling them with confetti. At school this morning, they held the Miss Carnival competition, which I went to because I’m sick and didn’t feel up to applying fluoride in the schools (somehow, I was up for a Carnival experience). There were 8 Mayan girls competing. I haven’t stopped being astonished by how little they wear when they participate in parades or contests like this. Several were wearing the equivalent of bikini’s in front of their entire student body, teachers, and the town mayor. Even back home, most parents wouldn’t go for this. It’s hard to understand how such outfits became the tradition in a culture where girls who don’t even wear shorts - ever - or wear their hair down. Each girl had to give a short speech and perform a dance - the dances were straight out of the discotec. One had something of a belly dancing routine. Angel told me he thought she should win.

In the afternoon the kids gathered in the town square and went crazy cracking eggs on heads. Traditionally, these eggs are supposed to hold only confetti but over time, and as older kids corrupted the tradition, real eggs or eggshells filled with flour have come into vogue. I hear foreigners are a popular target. I decided I was too sick to have to take a second shower so I missed this. I got confetti'd last week at clinic anyway, so I know how much fun it is!